|
|
June 23, 2006
Peak Experience
What you're looking at is Clinch Mountain (4,208 feet). I rode up it.
OK, I didn't ride up all of it, I topped out at 3,130 feet. To get an idea of what that means, check out the map. See that evil squiggly bit across the top there? That represents a climb of 1,470 feet in 3.7 miles. This was accomplished with one Powerbar, five Clif Bars, and four packets of Gu20. I neglected to take into account that by making powdered electrolyte replacement drink with my Camelbak water, I'd go through it faster, and I ran out somewhere near the top edge of this map-slice. Fortunately, Gu20 has almost four times the Sodium that Gatorade does, otherwise I would've been in more serious trouble than I was. Sucking the salt out of my jersey helped me through the rough spots. Then, at the bottom of the wicked downhill on the other side of the mountain, the guy driving the sag (supply) wagon for the three blissfully unencumbered cyclists who passed by me on the way up stopped and asked if I had seen his people up there. Turns out they stopped at the campsite on top of the mountain, while he thought they were heading for one in the valley. We chatted for a bit, and he gave me a bottle of water, which I turned into more Gu20 and chugged posthaste.
Damascus was a tough town to leave. Bob and Diane, proprietors of the Dancing Bear, were excellent and unobtrusive hosts...Diane knocked quietly at my door the afternoon I arrived bearing wunnerful homemade oatmeal chocolate chip cookies, and Bob - an Appalachian Trail through-hiker - was happy to share bits of hiking lore that were applicable to my venture. The room was nice and cozy, Mount Rogers Outfitters had so much nifty stuff I went back three times (hence the Gu20), and, all in all, I was low and sad when I pedaled out of town this morning. Homesick, for lack of a better word, and seriously questioning my self, my journey...just everything. Very blah.
My mom's a big John Denver fan, and I grew up listening to alot of his music. So, reaching for anything to keep me from collapsing into a ditch in numb despair, I put JD on the iPod...and sailed through the day on the aural wind of my youth (although I did put on Led Zeppelin III for the big downhill later). I hooked up the big cell antenna and called Pea from outside the elementary school in Hayters Gap, just prior to the big climb, and it was good to talk to her for a bit, rekindling my sense of connection to something other than the road, the mesh seat of my trike, and energy-dense foodstuffs.
Altogether: 31.3 miles, at an average speed of 7 miles an hour, which, considering the climbs involved and the weight I'm hauling, is pretty damn good. My maximum speed was 43.7 miles per hour, no doubt achieved on the way down from the peak on Route 80. The climb, as brutal as it was, as hard, sweaty, and hot as it was, was less a matter of faith than of assurance. I knew I'd make it. At one point, after a steep switchback, I confronted another set of switchbacks stretching up the mountain and out of sight, and I burst out laughing. "It just won't stop!" I yelled into the trees, then stopped in a patch of shoulder-gravel to rest and eat some energy before pushing on.
At the end of the ride: the Elk Garden Methodist Church, which opens its doors to cyclists. I'm here alone, and the pastor hasn't stopped by. I've stuffed myself full of ramen, and I'll sleep on the nice flat floor with my sleeping pad and bag, happy to have a roof over my head. Shortly after I arrived, a thunderstorm blew through, so intense that a pair of motorcyclists took shelter under the church's front porch until it let up a bit. There's a chance for more of the same tomorrow, but I'm going to push about 44 miles to a campground near the Kentucky border. It's mostly downhill from here, with one or two 500-foot climbs, so I should be OK even if it decides to rain a bit.
What a day. It started off so dreary, headwise, and as I climbed the mountain my spirits rose even as my body strained and pulled against gravity and the heat. Now, sitting here with only the sound of a ticking clock for company, I feel content. I am able to do things, apparently, that I didn't know I could do. I can look at the contour lines on the next few days' worth of map panels and know that I will be able to go up those mountains. The ease of mind and soul that comes from that knowledge is simply sublime.
This last photo is the first thing I saw after I shot out of the downhill between the mountain peaks and the fields opened up on all sides of me. The picture doesn't do it justice, of course...the digital image has made more out of the haze than was actually there. But seeing that mountain splashed across the horizon was a wonderful bit of joy for the eyes after being closely surrounded by trees and steep hillside for much of the afternoon.
June 24, 2006
Down And Safe
I've made it to Breaks Interstate Park. Today's ride was about 45 miles, including climbs that resembled yesterday's, only broken into two or three 500- to 800- foot climbs instead of one 1,400-foot climb. And there was rain. Lots of it.
It's dark, and I'm sitting in my tent listening to the sounds of drops hitting the fly while bluegrass fiddle echos through the well-populated campground. That music I don't mind so much. The air is so humid outside that my breath formed great glowing clouds about my face as I walked around, illuminated by my Petzl headlamp.
I'll be staying here tomorrow, because the Knee Department has filed all the proper paperwork and formally requested a break.
I'm proud of myself: there's a Lodge here, with cozy rooms and showers and beds and so on. I resolved: I hauled this stuff up this mountain and I'm damn well going to make camp with it, rain or no rain.
And so, here I sit, a few miles from the Kentucky border, close enough to Elkhorn City to get online without the big antenna or the amplifier.
More tomorrow.
June 25, 2006
Rain, Rain, Go Away...
No, seriously. Go. Away.
But it won't, not until the day after tomorrow, at least, and probably not even then. I've managed to avoid getting wet for a month (yes, today marks one month on the road), so I suppose I'm due. I had four ,choices for tomorrow: stay here, get rained on and remain damp; pack up, go to the Lodge and pay $50; pack up, pedal 1.7 miles to the Gateway motel in the rain and pay some unknown cash quantity; pack up, pedal 7 miles to Elkhorn City in the rain and stay at the only motel in town which sounds like a cross between a motel and a hostel, and pay $30. On balance, stayiing here seems like the best choice, and it's only $11.
For awhile, those choices all seemed pretty dismal to me, and made me moody and mopey. But my tent is mostly dry, except for the damp that inevitably intrudes during a day-long soak, and I've got a book (Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air), and there's this here computer-thingy, which I can actually recharge in the rain using the electric hookup and a cunning arrangement of plastic bags and candle wax. Unfortunately, it's difficult to spend much time on the machine because I can't sit at the picnic table with it, and my legs do not like being crossed at all in the close quarters of the tent. I was going to post a lovely picture of the mist-shrouded gorge for you...but apparently the batteries in the camera have died, and the fresh ones are outside in the trailer. I'm not going back out again if I can help it, so the pictures and post of yesterday's ride (tentatively titled, Great, Kid...Don't Get Cocky) will have to wait.
June 26, 2006
Then again...
You know, there's really only so much dampness a guy can take. I put in a good faith effort: two nights camping with the gear I hauled up the mountain. In the rain. In lots of rain. And when there wasn't rain, there was mist. Thick mist. Mist you could make a sandwich with.
This afternoon as I stood in the shelter of the camp's laundry shack doing my laundry with quarters scraped together from various random pockets and change from the Pepsi machine, I noted with interest that it had stopped raining. I had my laptop with me, and I also noted with interest that the NOAA weather forecast had changed again, upping the chance of rain tomorrow from 50% to an unprecedented 100% (it has since been lowered to 60%, of course). And I knew that I didn't want to do a 60-mile ride with climbs at the end of it in the sort of weather the NOAA hooligans were predicting. So, I packed up (in the rain, which started up again), and high-tailed it off the mountain and seven miles across the state line into Elkhorn City, where I write to you now from a somewhat dingy but reasonably-priced motel room that has every piece of my gear strewn all over it, drying out.
In order to get online, I had to solve a vexing technical problem: I accidentally turned on the Black Box switch that powers the cellular amplifier, and drained the big battery over the course of my stay at the campground. No power for the amp! Because I had only designed the Box to charge the battery with solar panels, the cloudy weather meant that I would be without a crucial piece of communications gear for several days, just as I was entering a state where cell signals are elusive. However: I have a big bag of AC adapters for all of my various gizmos and gadgets, and after a few minutes of experimenting I discovered that the adapter that powers my AA battery charger fits into the sockets on the Black Box that accept solar panel input. Success! Now I'm charging the battery, and powering the amplifier. The big antenna is actually outside the motel room door, with the cable running through a gap at the door's bottom, and with that setup I can eke out the bare minimum signal required to get online. There's a certain satisfaction in that.
Geeeeky satisfaction.
By coming here, I get to dry out, and I've shaved just a bit off the long haul I need to make to Pippa Passes. I also met four westbound cyclists. Two couples, one on a tandem and the other on singles. We ate dinner together at the restaurant next to the motel (I indulged in my cheeseburger thing, as I'm not riding tomorrow). Two of them - Katie and Mo - started out in New York City, came down through Pennsylvania and Maryland, and are headed west until Kansas. There, they'll hang a left and end up in Austin, Texas so that Katie can start grad school. Jesse and Taisha are from the Northwest, and flew out to the east coast so that they'd have a Coming Home instead of a Going Away party...now's the time to do it, they figured, before kids and the rest of life made the journey impossible. They're riding a Burley tandem, which means that their average speeds are a lot like mine. Fun people...they're all leaving for Pippa Pass tomorrow, but it's likely that I'll run into them again further along the route.
And now it's time for bed. I'm a day behind in storytelling...I'll put up a post about and pics of Saturday's ride tomorrow, honest.
But here's a photo of the first bit of scenery I encountered in Kentucky - that's the Russel Fork river at the bottom of the gorge.
Good night, all.
June 27, 2006
Oh, I Give Up
This morning...the sun is out. Not blue-sky out. But there's sunlight. It's still supposed to rain later on today, but I bet that I could've made the trek without getting very wet, and I would've had company at the hostel. Sigh.
Clearly, I need to stop obsessing about the weather reports, because I keep zigging when I should zag and end up cooling my heels when I should be spinning them.
So, the rationalization now is that I needed to dry my gear out, see? And it'll take awhile to repack, because it's scattered all over the place. Yeah, that's it.
At any rate...I plotted out tomorrow's route on the GPS, and it weighs it at a somewhat more reasonable 55 miles. Just two climbs - one at 780 feet over 5.2 miles, another at 510 feet over 1.2 miles - and there's also a lot of lesser, up-and-down terrain. So it'll be a long day, for sure.
With that in mind, I need to go out and start carbo-loading. Pancakes!
LATER:
It didn't rain.
Not. One. Drop.
|